Nanga Parbat expedition: Bielecki with Txikon, Mackiewicz goes highest
Due to bad weather Adam Bielecki and Jacek Czech resigned an alpine attack on the winter-unconquered Nanga Parbat peak (8,125 m) and joined forces with Alex Txikon. Among those presently climbing the mountain Tomasz Mackiewicz reached the highest altitude.
Five teams are attempting Nanga Parbat, a peak that has never been climbed in winter: a team of Bielecki and Czech, Txikon's group (with an Italian Daniele Nardi and a Pakistani Ali Sadpara), a Polish-French duo Tomasz Mackiewicz and Elisabeth Revol, an Italian pair Tamara Lunger and Simone Moro who are trying to climb Diamir Face (the west side of the mountain), and a group led by Marek Klonowski making an attempt on the Rupal Face.
Bielecki and Czech reached 5,700 m (18,701 ft). "Plan A, a quick attack in an alpine style failed due to bad weather. Plan B, repeating acclimatization followed by an attack in a style similar to the alpine one was also unsuccessful because of Jacek's indisposition, who is fortunately fine now. It is time for plan C. We have agreed on conditions of cooperation with Alex Tixon's team. We want to rail the route leading to C3 camp together", wrote Bielecki on Facebook after coming down to base camp.
Another message appeared on Facebook, this time written by Mackiewicz reporting setting up the C3 camp above 6600 m. The mountaineer is attempting the peak for the 6th time, the 2nd time with Revol. The French informed that they are both back in the base but it is not clear whether they reached the planned altitude of 7,000 m (22,966 ft).
According to a Pakistani website devoted to mountaineering, Klonowski's group attacking the Rupal Face is making smaller progress. Working alone after two Pakistani had left, the Poles reached 6,000 m (19,685 ft) and set the second camp, in which they were stuck for a few days due to a strong wind.
Located in Western Himalayas, Nanga Parbat is one of the two eight-thousanders that have never been climbed in winter, the other being K2 in Karakorum.
Ten out of fourteen eight-thousanders were climbed in winter for the first time by Poles (including Shishapangma which was climbed by Polish-Italian team). (PAP)
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